Wednesday 29th January - Egg Hoppers, a Result

Our 5 am pick up is waiting at the gate and driver Chaminda greets us warmly. We have the gypsy to ourselves this morning and have less distance to travel. The driving is much more sedate this time and before too long we turn into the Bundala National Park access road where we pull up. We are just over the road from a temple and less than a hundred yards from another. The two seem to be in a volume contest and the cacophony is immense. Regular readers may recall that we are very definitely against mixing religion and amplification, particular in the hours before dawn. The sky lightens and we move along the single track road away from habitation. A few other gypsies have joined us but there is nothing like the mêlée of yesterday morning.

At the gate we are joined by a chap who introduces himself as a volunteer guide, and whose name escapes both of us. Our first stop gives us a view over an area of marshy looking ground towards a small lake. The sun is just creeping over the horizon and the ground and bushes are teeming with birds. We watch a flock of Oriental Pratincoles wheeling around in the sky before landing as a group and standing dead still as if waiting for something to happen. Nearer to us a Pheasant Tailed Jacana frolics in the shallows. There are waders of every size and hue and no, we are not making any of these names up.

As it gets lighter we can see dozens of Bee eaters in bushes waiting for the sun to warm up the ground and for the insects to become active. We move on to another stretch of water where a large gathering of Black Tailed Godwits are foraging in the mud. A Pied Kingfisher perches on a roost above them and behind a pair of Pelicans are feeding a young one.

Our volunteer guide turns out to be a fountain of knowledge about birds and the reserve. This time of year is a good one to visit Bundala as there are many visiting migrants. Most years large flocks of flamingos arrive but this year they are absent. The reserve is mainly low lying with a couple of low ridges and lots of open water and scrubland. Whilst not forested there are large trees scattered about, quite a few of them dead. At this side of the reserve the water is fresh. Nearer the sea it becomes salt water. We circle the lake with the Pelicans and see Darters and Spoonbills. 

Large sections of vegetation in this area have been ripped out using mechanical diggers. Our guide explains that work is being done to try to eridicate prickly pear cactii, an alien and invasive species that is upsetting the eco structure in the area. The next section that we visit is a causeway along the bund between two tanks or reservoirs. There is action on both sides and our man is pleased to show us Caspian Terns with their distinctive orange beaks.

Moving on into an area with a few more trees we see a large bird land on a dead tree. It is a Grey Headed Fish Eagle, like the one we saw on Tuesday, but a better view. We get a fleeting glance of a small woodpecker which won't pose for a photo and spend a few minutes pursuing a Pied Cuckoo with only limited success. Then our driver spots a Yellow Bittern in some reeds. This is a very shy and reclusive creature with superb camouflage for its native habitat. We sit for some time watching as the bird stealthily creeps forward.

When we move we have not gone very far before we see an Osprey perched on a large tree. Some Lapwings are attempting to mob it but the Osprey shrugs them off with its wings. For those getting bored with birds there is also some non avian wildlife including a sunbathing crocodile, two types of monkey, two types of mongoose and some pretty chunky monitor lizards. Apparently some Sri Lankans consider these to be a great barbecue delicacy.

Eventually we get to the furthest point of the reserve, a rocky headland with sea on three sides. Here we consume our self catered breakfast and stretch our legs. This is the only place in the reserve where leaving the vehicle is permitted. On the way back to the entrance we see a juvenile Crested Serpent Eagle and some Spotted Deer. We part company with our guide at the gate and head for home, pausing only to admire an Indian Roller perched on a tree near the access road.

Back at the Blue Turtle we opt for a siesta them head out for a late lunch. Our normal policy in hot climates is to skip lunch but having had very thin breakfasts two days running we feel we have earned it.  We are still hunting egg hoppers. A couple of places say no but a gaggle of auto drivers point us a place on the main road called the Okin Reach. The chap there says sorry, it is an evening dish. And we were thinking it ticked all the boxes for breakfast/brunch. We move a bit further down the strip and settle for samosas and a toasted sandwich, served with ginger beer. We steer well clear of the spicy condiment which appears to be neat chilli seeds.

This is followed by a lazy afternoon with some admin and some swimming. At 5 pm we walk the hundred yards down the lane to the tank hoping to see the Paradise Flycatcher again. We see the female but the male is hiding. We also see about 20 other species and get a couple of good photos.

After a cold beer in the bar we walk out to the Olin Reach. When we ask about Egg Hoppers we get a no, but then the chap recognises us and consults urgently in the kitchen. A deal is done for two egg hoppers each plus sundry other foodstuffs and the chap gets on his motorcycle to go ingredient shopping. The one thing that we don't know is what this is going to cost. Number one son serves beer and has decent English. He wants to set up his own Safari Company. Pa returns with the necessary and we are soon tucking in to Egg Hoppers, with plain hoppers that we load with fish poached in coconut and sambar (spicy fried onions). The hoppers look a bit like tacos and taste like dosas. The food is delicious and the bill about £9. We are thrilled and the whole family seem happy to see us off the premises. We owe them a cracking review online somewhere.

Bonus photo as D missed this on the narrative.