Tuesday 25th February - Happy Campers

We have the luxury of a lie in this morning. The WiFi has gone from intermittent to non existent. At breakfast our paranthas are very good but do take 45 minutes to arrive. Good job that we are not in a hurry. The waiter is very keen to show us the hotel's vegetable garden, which has a wide range of produce.

At ten o'clock we load up the car and hit the road. Our destination is another National Park, on the other side of the Brahmaputra River, close to the State Border with Arunachal Pradesh. The trip involves driving back towards Guwahati then turning north to cross the river. To say it is big is an understatement. The current bridge just carries two lanes of traffic and a new one is being built parallel, just to the west. D spends the trip trying to get yesterday's blog on line, but between poor WiFi and bouncy roads it is a losing battle.

Nameri Eco Camp is right on the edge of the National Park and consists of a dozen or so Canvas Cabins around a central grassy area, with an open sided restaurant at one end. The cabins are raised up on concrete platforms, with an overall thatched roof, a block built bathroom at the back and a large tent, containing two single beds in front. There are basic electrics, hot water and a pleasant verandah with bamboo furniture. Even R is impressed. A waiter brings us black tea as we get settled in.

We don't have an intensive program booked here and it is nice to relax for an hour. The WiFi is even worse than the last place so blogging will be delayed. The sky is grey and it is not too hot for us, although quite humid. We decide to get our walking shoes on and go for an explore. There is a Forest Park Information Centre just behind our cabin, so we start there. There are photos of tigers as well as an explanation of why we are unlikely to see one. The chance of seeing rare birds is a bit higher. The area is one of the few places in the world to host White Winged Ducks, a critically endangered species.

The map in the centre shows that you can walk down to the Jia  Bhorelli river, so we set off that way. The track is sandy and very dusty, and not much is stirring apart from one of the camp dogs which has followed us. As we approach the river we see signs that read 'Nothing is Permitted Unless Permission has been Granted'. We are not too sure whether we have had Permission Granted but decide to take a chance. The river is wide and deep unlike the dry stoney watercourses seen so often in India. There are a couple of punt like boats on the near bank, half full of water.

Not much is happening so we retrace our steps and enquire at the office about going birdwatching in the morning. We will need permits (Rs 540 each), a Forest Guard (100), a camera permit (50) and a guide (500) is recommended. This better be good. We opt to have a guide and are told that he will be working in the restaurant tonight so we can sort out details. Meanwhile R is talking to our American neighbours who tell her that Hornbills can be seen early morning and last light flying across the river.

We are debating whether to walk back down to the river for sunset when there is a stir as people gather to watch a Greater Goldenback Woodpecker on one of the tall trees in the garden. These used to be called Flamebacks but the name changed between the first and second editions of R's bird book. This visit is followed by a flock of Red Breasted Parakeets who chatter and shriek in a different large tree. We decide to go back down to the river for dusk, a decision made easier when Sahil offers to drive us. The clearing on the bank is quite crowded with people, some of whom are clueless about birding. We get good views of a Spotted Owlet and a Rufous Treepie as well hearing some hornbill calls.

 It is getting dark when we get back to Camp. The staff light a fire in the garden and we sit there chatting to a young couple from Hampshire who have quit their jobs to travel the world. Supper is a basic thali with chicken, rice, dal, potatoes, cauliflower and rotis. As we dine it starts to rain, gently at first, but by the time we are back in our room it starts to hammer down. Early night because we are back on earlies tomorrow.