Tuesday 4th February - Kandy Box

A relaxed start to the day, lying in bed listening to the military band somewhere below. We packed last night so just breakfast and a few last minute things to sort out before we depart. Today's Sri Lankan specials are coconut rotis and a somewhat spicier dal. We pay the bill, load the luggage onto an auto and head for the station, heading straight for the outbound parcels office.  They seem pleased to see us and a book is produced. D is asked his name and replies, provoking the response "Like Shane Watson?". Who else? It seems possible that the left luggage service is not greatly used. The heading at the top of the receipt is Ceylon Government Railways and the carbon paper was upside down. Ceylon became Sri Lanka in 1972.

There is a layer of light cloud this morning and a steady breeze, keeping temperatures very pleasant. The big draw in Kandy is the Temple of the Sacred Tooth, a very holy site for Sri Lankan Buddhists. This is a large site with various temples and shrines, as well as a museum about Buddhism.  It was a target for a Tamil Tiger bomb attack in the 1990s and now has security like Fort Knox. As we approach we see long lines to pass through security at the main gate. As we took a stroll on Sunday we noticed another entrance at the far end of the complex, accessible via the lakeside path. When we get there the queues are almost as bad and we consider our alternatives.

There is a set of stairs up to the Kandy Garrison Cemetery but as we start to climb these a man at the top shouts down that they are closed. As we turn round we see another pair of security gates, Ladies' and Mens', with no queue whatsoever. We approach with some trepidation and are waved inside to have our bags checked. These are physically searched then passed through a scanner. Once through security we are waved over to the shoe deposit stand and hand in our smelly sandals.

We are approached by a guide who wants us to hire him. We explain that we don't have a lot of time and he tells us the queue for the Sacred Tooth Temple alone will be at least 45 minutes. That settles it. We will walk around seeing what there is to see that does not require the purchase of a ticket - a reet Yorkshire treat. And there is a lot to see including several minor temples, some interesting statues and a really impressive queue to see the resting place of the relic. We haven't seen a queue like that since Radinja8 when we were dragooned into visiting Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum. We also discovered that Headgear was not permitted either but nobody had complained about our hats.

Having had a sufficient dose we recover our footwear and make our exit. On our way to get a lime soda we pass the stalls that sell lotus flowers that the devout purchase as offerings. The flowers look great but they are attracting clouds of rather vicious looking wasps or hornets so we do not hang about. Refreshed we head for the main street looking to make a couple of purchases. On route we encounter a Boy Scout Marching Band. Nice of them to put on a parade for us. 

Many autos and a few other vehicles are flying Sri Lankan flags in honour of the special day today. The other thing that we realise is that many of the shops are shut and that our shopping will have to wait. Another marching band comes up the road, sounding remarkably like an Orange Band with drums and flutes to the fore. We wander in the direction of the railway station and find the municipal market, laid out around a rather nice garden. The stallholders seem to be winding down for an early finish. 

We get to the station in good time just in case there is a hiccup with the bags but all goes well and R is soon installed amongst the luggage on the concourse seating. The information board shows our train to be due on Platform 2. D goes for an explore and finds the Signal Box at the platform end. He greets the man in the doorway and is invited up the stairs. A photo of D working the box at Bo'ness is shown and it is off to the races. The levers are explained and D is invited to watch the movement taking place of an observation car onto the manual turntable. There two chaps push it round by hand so that it is facing in the right direction for the next run. It is a busy box with plenty of trains in an out and a lot of shunting moves. D is concious of the need not to get in the way of the job and, after thanking his hosts in the traditional way, bids farewell.

The signalmen have told him what order the train will be in and we are able to move our luggage along the platform to be nearer. D's guess is only about 10 feet out. The luggage goes up on the racks without too much difficulty and we settle into our seats. The train reverses at Kandy and all of the seats are facing backwards. At least we have a proper view out of the window. For half an hour or so we wind through the mountains then suddenly the descent begins. The ride is not much better than on our previous trip and every time the train pulls away from a stand there is a serious coupling jerk. R thinks that the A/c could be working better and ten minutes later it is, and she complains about being cold. Once we have dropped down to the low lying area surrounding Colombo the track becomes dual and speed picks up. The ride is a bit better but nothing to write home about. For once this express does live up to the name, only stopping half a dozen times. We get to Colombo Fort station pretty much on schedule.

Stepping out of the train is like walking into an oven. It is much hotter and stickier. Too hot to spend time falling out with tuktuk drivers. The traffic is light as we head for the hotel and the bars and restaurants appear to be closed. At the Fairway we check in without problems and get the room next door to the one we left ten days ago. The receptionist confirms our deepest fear. Today is a Dry Day in recognition of the nation's independence. Strange way of celebrating. He does confirm that restaurants will be open but soft drinks only. Good job we like the Ginger Beer here.

We decide to stay close to base and walk a hundred yards round the corner to the Black Pepper restaurant, which turns out to be a clone of Ministry of Crab. R has Mullet and D has Pepper Curried Mutton, both delicious as we watch Joe Denly make some sort of effort to drag England's backsides out of the flames. Fortunately we have emergency nightcaps back in the room.