Saturday 29th February- Down Came the Rain
We always seem to spend Leap Year's Day in India. In 2012 we slept under the desert sky and went camel riding.
http://radinja2.blogspot.com/2012/02/wednesday-29th-february-camel-riding.html
In 2016 we spent the day on a hellish bus trip through the minor foothills of the Himalayas that a "friend" had persuaded us would be a breeze.
http://radinja6.blogspot.com/2016/03/on-buses-leap-day-special-episode.html
He is still a good friend and today we have arranged to meet him for culture and lunch. But first shopping. Breakfast at Lutyens Bungalow is always a delight and even better now that they have started baking their own bread. We are in no hurry and step at a few minutes before ten. We haven't walked thirty yards when an auto driver approaches. "Metro" is the answer. "Oh no sir. Crowded and dangerous. Better by auto." What he doesn't know is that when D checks the other, even older Metro Travel Cards, they have a balance of Rs 178 on each therefore we don't care how crowded and dangerous it is. Anyway we know perfectly well that it won't be very crowded at this time and that there is far more danger of D bursting a blood vessel trying to negotiate an auto fare. As we cross the road outside the Metro Station he sails by with two other LB inmates on board. They are Americans and presumably tip better than us, so a good result all round.
Two stops north on the Yellow line, change to the Violet line for one stop and we are delivered to within fifty feet of the front door of the Central Cottage Industries Emporium for 18 rupees each. Even a local might struggle to get an auto down to that sort of price. The CCIE is situated on Janpath which is Hindi for Tout Street. On one of our early visits we were suckered into believing that the place had moved and were taken by auto to some carpet shop half a mile away. Today we are approached separately by two men who tell us that the Emporium is closed today, even while we watch the security guard opening the front door to admit customers. What is the Hindi for "On tha bike wazzock!". We like this shop because it has AC and is run by the Government so there is a total lack of pressure selling. It also stocks a totally amazing array of items from all around India.
R has to be reminded that even in Business Class there is not an unlimited weight or size of baggage that can be taken. The marble Ganesh would have to be bought a seat and even in Economy that is quite a hit. We do find a couple of more modest items that appeal and stand easy while the bureaucracy lumbers into action. Take the item to the nearest counter for billing, leave it there and take the bill while you continue to shop. These days the system is computerized except for one item that required a form filling in by hand in triplicate using carbon paper. An almost identical item purchased in the same department was on the computer system. When purchasing is complete one reports to the cashier to pay and get the bills receipted before moving on to collections where the goods are handed over and the bills stamped again. What we discover is that one can pay and collect later, which suits us as we can collect on the way home later today. People do seem to be taking larger luggage and packages on the metro these days so the dining room suite should not be a problem.
The expansion of the metro has made it some much easier to get to Old Delhi and we take the opportunity to visit Chandni Chowk, one of the main commercial streets. Three years ago some work was happening and it is still underway but in spades. There is a bit of progress towards the vision emblazoned on the hoardings but the effect on some of the small businesses must be quite severe. Our objective is not a small business, but the large branch of Haldiram's, a big operation in the packaged snacks and sweets market but also operators of decent cafe type operations. We were taken here by our guide on our first ever morning in Delhi and always make space in our itinerary for a lassi or lime soda on the first floor. We then spend time gazing at the amazing variety of sweets in the display cabinets on the ground floor. One day we will work out how to buy some of them.
As we are preparing to leave Haldiram's we get a call from V to say that he is on his way to our agreed RV. We almost miss the turn off for the short cut to Chandni Chowk metro station as the development work seems to have demolished the little shrine that we recognise as the turn off point. We travel three stops south on the Yellow line and change to eastbound on the Blue, alighting at the recently renamed Supreme Court station. Here we meet V and take an Uber to the National Handicrafts and Handlooms Museum. We have not been here before but V recommends both the museum and the attached cafe. We agree to see some of the museum and have lunch later.
There are artefacts from all over India showing the folk arts and crafts that give different parts of the country their distinctive cultures. V is very knowledgeable about many of the items on display and is able to explain things rather better than the signage provided. The museum's policy is no photos in the galleries, with photo police in place, so you will just have to take our word for how interesting it is. The recently opened Textile Gallery is particularly impressive, with some amazing fabrics on display. Photography is permitted outdoors so here is a small taster.
By 2.30 we feel the need for lunch and, after a short wait, we get a table. The food is really good with big portions. V recommends crispy fried, battered spinach leaves with chaat and yoghurt as a starter, then R has mushroom uttapam while D has something delicious involving chickpeas but cannot recall what it is called. Food is followed by pots of Darjeeling Orange Peko tea.
Within the museum grounds a craft fair with the theme of "Empowerment of Women" is being held. The items for sale include artwork, fabrics, clothing and jewellery. R and V are in their element browsing until a thunderstorm breaks and the rain lashes down for a few minutes. It stops and we make a couple of purchases before the deluge recommences. We decide to call it a draw and V summons an Uber which takes us back to the Emporium, where we part company.
We pick up our purchases and reverse this morning's metro trip. We emerge at what used to be Racecourse metro to the surprising sight of very smart cars parked bumper to bumper on both sides of the street and even double parked in places. Somebody called V K Agarwal is throwing a humdinger of a party in one of the massive mansions that predominate in these parts. It does look to be a very splendid event although D is of the opinion that the choice of music could be improved.
We make it back to base just before a massive thunderstorm breaks, rattling the windows and flooding the terrace. We revise our plans for the evening and stay in for a couple of beers.
http://radinja2.blogspot.com/2012/02/wednesday-29th-february-camel-riding.html
In 2016 we spent the day on a hellish bus trip through the minor foothills of the Himalayas that a "friend" had persuaded us would be a breeze.
http://radinja6.blogspot.com/2016/03/on-buses-leap-day-special-episode.html
He is still a good friend and today we have arranged to meet him for culture and lunch. But first shopping. Breakfast at Lutyens Bungalow is always a delight and even better now that they have started baking their own bread. We are in no hurry and step at a few minutes before ten. We haven't walked thirty yards when an auto driver approaches. "Metro" is the answer. "Oh no sir. Crowded and dangerous. Better by auto." What he doesn't know is that when D checks the other, even older Metro Travel Cards, they have a balance of Rs 178 on each therefore we don't care how crowded and dangerous it is. Anyway we know perfectly well that it won't be very crowded at this time and that there is far more danger of D bursting a blood vessel trying to negotiate an auto fare. As we cross the road outside the Metro Station he sails by with two other LB inmates on board. They are Americans and presumably tip better than us, so a good result all round.
Two stops north on the Yellow line, change to the Violet line for one stop and we are delivered to within fifty feet of the front door of the Central Cottage Industries Emporium for 18 rupees each. Even a local might struggle to get an auto down to that sort of price. The CCIE is situated on Janpath which is Hindi for Tout Street. On one of our early visits we were suckered into believing that the place had moved and were taken by auto to some carpet shop half a mile away. Today we are approached separately by two men who tell us that the Emporium is closed today, even while we watch the security guard opening the front door to admit customers. What is the Hindi for "On tha bike wazzock!". We like this shop because it has AC and is run by the Government so there is a total lack of pressure selling. It also stocks a totally amazing array of items from all around India.
R has to be reminded that even in Business Class there is not an unlimited weight or size of baggage that can be taken. The marble Ganesh would have to be bought a seat and even in Economy that is quite a hit. We do find a couple of more modest items that appeal and stand easy while the bureaucracy lumbers into action. Take the item to the nearest counter for billing, leave it there and take the bill while you continue to shop. These days the system is computerized except for one item that required a form filling in by hand in triplicate using carbon paper. An almost identical item purchased in the same department was on the computer system. When purchasing is complete one reports to the cashier to pay and get the bills receipted before moving on to collections where the goods are handed over and the bills stamped again. What we discover is that one can pay and collect later, which suits us as we can collect on the way home later today. People do seem to be taking larger luggage and packages on the metro these days so the dining room suite should not be a problem.
The expansion of the metro has made it some much easier to get to Old Delhi and we take the opportunity to visit Chandni Chowk, one of the main commercial streets. Three years ago some work was happening and it is still underway but in spades. There is a bit of progress towards the vision emblazoned on the hoardings but the effect on some of the small businesses must be quite severe. Our objective is not a small business, but the large branch of Haldiram's, a big operation in the packaged snacks and sweets market but also operators of decent cafe type operations. We were taken here by our guide on our first ever morning in Delhi and always make space in our itinerary for a lassi or lime soda on the first floor. We then spend time gazing at the amazing variety of sweets in the display cabinets on the ground floor. One day we will work out how to buy some of them.
As we are preparing to leave Haldiram's we get a call from V to say that he is on his way to our agreed RV. We almost miss the turn off for the short cut to Chandni Chowk metro station as the development work seems to have demolished the little shrine that we recognise as the turn off point. We travel three stops south on the Yellow line and change to eastbound on the Blue, alighting at the recently renamed Supreme Court station. Here we meet V and take an Uber to the National Handicrafts and Handlooms Museum. We have not been here before but V recommends both the museum and the attached cafe. We agree to see some of the museum and have lunch later.
There are artefacts from all over India showing the folk arts and crafts that give different parts of the country their distinctive cultures. V is very knowledgeable about many of the items on display and is able to explain things rather better than the signage provided. The museum's policy is no photos in the galleries, with photo police in place, so you will just have to take our word for how interesting it is. The recently opened Textile Gallery is particularly impressive, with some amazing fabrics on display. Photography is permitted outdoors so here is a small taster.
By 2.30 we feel the need for lunch and, after a short wait, we get a table. The food is really good with big portions. V recommends crispy fried, battered spinach leaves with chaat and yoghurt as a starter, then R has mushroom uttapam while D has something delicious involving chickpeas but cannot recall what it is called. Food is followed by pots of Darjeeling Orange Peko tea.
Within the museum grounds a craft fair with the theme of "Empowerment of Women" is being held. The items for sale include artwork, fabrics, clothing and jewellery. R and V are in their element browsing until a thunderstorm breaks and the rain lashes down for a few minutes. It stops and we make a couple of purchases before the deluge recommences. We decide to call it a draw and V summons an Uber which takes us back to the Emporium, where we part company.
We pick up our purchases and reverse this morning's metro trip. We emerge at what used to be Racecourse metro to the surprising sight of very smart cars parked bumper to bumper on both sides of the street and even double parked in places. Somebody called V K Agarwal is throwing a humdinger of a party in one of the massive mansions that predominate in these parts. It does look to be a very splendid event although D is of the opinion that the choice of music could be improved.
We make it back to base just before a massive thunderstorm breaks, rattling the windows and flooding the terrace. We revise our plans for the evening and stay in for a couple of beers.
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